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Founded in , the brand proved that surplus military garb could be refashioned into must-have clothes. It made wearing khaki cool again. In this case, that adjustment is as dramatic as the pace of social change itself. Banana Republic has long enjoyed the patronage of gay men, and a few months ago, it finally put them in its advertising. Such a move would have been unthinkable two decades ago when this ad typified the mood of midscale fashion: black and white, mildly abstract, reassuringly heterosexual.